Fillers & Additives

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Fillers & Additives

Thickeners, fairing fillers and additives, and which one the job actually wants

Resin straight from the jug runs off vertical surfaces and is too brittle to fill a gap. Fillers fix that, and which powder you reach for changes the result more than most people expect. Everything here is sold from pint and quart jars up to full bags.

Strong, or sandable. Not both

This is the whole decision. Fumed silica (Aerosil, Cab-O-Sil) and cotton flock make a mix that is strong and stays put, which is what you want in a bonding fillet or a structural gap. Cured, fumed silica is brutally hard to sand and will fight you for an afternoon.

Microballoons, Q-Cells and 3M glass bubbles go the other way: light, easy to fair back with a longboard, and not structural. Those belong in a fairing coat over the top, not in the joint underneath.

The usual sequence on a real repair is a structural fill with fumed silica or flock, then a fairing coat of microballoons over it once it has cured. Trying to do both jobs with one powder is what produces either a joint that cracks or a fairing coat that takes a week to sand.

Milled fiber and chopped strand

1/32 in milled fiber adds real tensile strength to a paste, which is what makes it the right choice for a structural bond or a repair that has to carry load. Chopped strand in 1/4 and 1/2 in lengths is for bulking out a deep cavity cheaply before the final laminate goes on.

How much to add

Mix the resin and hardener fully first, then add powder by volume, not weight, until it holds the consistency you want. Fumed silica hits mayonnaise at roughly 1 cup of loose powder per cup of mixed epoxy, microballoons take closer to 1 3/4 cups. Add two thirds, mix it in, then add the rest slowly, because these powders keep thickening for a minute after they look done.

The filler calculator works out the amount for your batch, and the consistency chart is a printable version for the shop wall.

Match the filler to the job, and keep strength fillers below the surface with fairing fillers on top:

  • Bonding and structural fillets: use a high-density or fiber filler like colloidal silica (Cabosil), milled fiber, or microfibers, which cure hard and strong.
  • Fairing and shaping: use a low-density filler like phenolic microballoons, glass bubbles, or a fairing compound, which sand and feather easily.

Adhesive, high-density fillers like colloidal silica and microfibers make a hard, strong mix for bonding and structural filleting, but they are tough to sand. Fairing, low-density fillers like microballoons and glass bubbles make a light, soft mix that sands and feathers easily for a smooth surface, but they are not structural. Use adhesive fillers for strength and fairing fillers for finish.

There is no fixed ratio. Mix the resin and hardener fully first, then stir in filler a little at a time until you reach the consistency the job needs:

  • Ketchup consistency: for a coating or pre-coat that still flows.
  • Mayonnaise consistency: for bonding parts together.
  • Peanut-butter consistency that holds a peak: for filleting and gap-filling.

Low-density microsphere fillers sand the easiest. Phenolic microballoons, 3M glass bubbles, and lightweight blends like our fairing compound or West System 410 Microlight feather to a fine edge and carve with little effort once cured. They trade strength for sandability, so use them above the structural layer for shaping and smoothing, not for bonding or load-bearing fillets.

Some are. High-density and fiber fillers like colloidal silica, milled glass fiber, and microfibers add real strength and are made for bonding and load-bearing fillets. Low-density fairing fillers like microballoons and glass bubbles are not structural; they are for shaping and fairing only. Build strength with a high-density filler first, then fair over it with a low-density filler.

It is a thixotropic thickening additive. Mix it into epoxy, polyester, vinyl ester, gelcoat, or paint to control sag, create a non-slump paste for vertical and overhead bonding, and stop resin from draining out of joints and fillets.

Both are lightweight fillers for fairing. Q-Cells are expanded perlite, a mineral filler, while phenolic microballoons are a resin-based filler. Q-Cells may be slightly more difficult to sand.

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