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Carbon Fiber Repair Kit

Carbon Fiber Repair Kit

SKU:SK-CFDIY-S

Regular price $69.95 USD
Sale price $69.95 USD Regular price $69.95 USD
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This carbon fiber repair kit is perfect for restoring carbon fiber surfboards, hydrofoils, bikes, fishing rods, boats and other composite equipment. It includes our durable epoxy resin system and carbon fiber fabric for strong, long-lasting reinforcement. All carbon fiber materials are also available individually and in larger quantities if you need additional supplies.

  • 6" x 50" Plain Weave Carbon Fiber Cloth (FG-CF5706)
  • 8oz Epoxy Resin
  • 2.67oz Medium 3:1 Hardener
  • 1/2" Chopped Carbon Fiber Filler (CF-CH50005)
  • Phenolic Microballoons Filler (FL-PH010)
  • Fumed Silica Filler (FL-AER010)
  • 4" Plastic Spreader (FT-PS004)
  • 5x Acid Brushes (BR-AB001)
  • 10x Mixing Sticks
  • 10x Measuring Cups
  • 6x Sand Paper 120p - 1000p
  • 2x Disposable Gloves

Coverage & Usage

  • Designed for small to medium carbon fiber repairs: surfboards, hydrofoils, bicycles, fishing rods, auto panels, and boat parts.
  • One kit provides approx. 2–3 layers of reinforcement over a 6" x 50" repair area.
  • Epoxy cures at room temperature; sandable in 12–18 hours at 77°F (25°C).

Performance

  • High-strength, marine-grade epoxy system for durable adhesion.
  • Carbon fiber cloth provides >70,000 psi tensile strength reinforcement.
  • Fillers allow for both structural reinforcement (chopped CF, silica) and fairing/lightweight finishing (microballoons).
  • Sandpapers included for finish prep and polishing.

Compatibility

  • Works with carbon fiber, fiberglass, Kevlar®, and wood substrates.
  • Suitable for epoxy-based laminations (not recommended for polyester resins).

Shelf Life & Storage

  • Store resin and hardener in a cool, dry place.
  • Shelf life: 12 months unopened.

Keep containers sealed when not in use.

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How to use this kit


Plain weave carbon, epoxy and fillers for structural composite repair. Every kit ships with this same sheet printed and in the box.

Safety: Epoxy resin and hardener are skin sensitizers: repeated contact can start a permanent allergy, so keep gloves on and wash with soap and water, never solvent. Carbon dust is electrically conductive as well as respirable: wear a dust mask and eye protection, keep it away from electronics and power tool vents, and wipe the area down wet rather than blowing it off.

What is in the kit

  • 1 Plain weave carbon fiber cloth, 6 x 50 inthe structural repair layers
  • 10.7 oz Two-part epoxy kit8 oz resin plus 2.7 oz hardener, 3:1 by volume
  • 1 1/2 in chopped carbon fiber fillerstructural bulking putty for gaps
  • 1 Phenolic microballoons fillerlight, easy-sanding fairing filler
  • 1 Fumed silica fillerthickens epoxy without adding weight
  • 6 Wet/dry sandpaper120 through 1000 grit
  • 5 / 10 / 10 Acid brushes, mixing sticks, measuring cups
  • 1 / 1 pr 4 in plastic spreader, disposable gloves

You supply: denatured alcohol, 80 grit paper, masking tape, peel ply or packing tape for a smooth cure, and a dust mask.

Mixing epoxy (3:1 by volume)

Ratio3 parts resin to 1 part hardener
Small batch3 oz resin + 1 oz hardener
Full kit8 oz resin + 2.7 oz hardener

Measure by volume in the graduated cups. Off-ratio epoxy never fully cures. Confirm the ratio printed on your hardener bottle.

Stir 2 minutes scraping sides and bottom, then pour into a second cup and stir again before you use it.

The job, start to finish

1

Sand back and taper

Sand the break back to sound laminate with 80 grit and taper the edges well beyond the damage, about 20 times the skin thickness for carbon. Carbon is stiff, so a short taper concentrates load right at the patch edge and cracks again. Wipe with alcohol.

2

Cut on the bias

Cut carbon patches in increasing sizes, smallest first. Tape the cut line before cutting so the weave does not unravel. For a tube or a curve, cut on the 45 degree bias: bias-cut carbon drapes around compound shapes where a straight cut will bridge and wrinkle.

3

Fill and bulk

For a hole or a crushed section, mix epoxy with chopped carbon fiber into a structural putty and fill back to just under the surface. Use microballoons only for cosmetic fairing, never as structure, and fumed silica when you need to thicken without bulk.

4

Laminate

Brush epoxy on, lay the smallest patch, and stipple it out until the weave turns from grey to deep black, which is how you know it is fully wet. Add each larger patch the same way. Press peel ply or packing tape over the top for a smooth cure that needs less sanding.

5

Fair and clear

Fill the weave with microballoon-thickened epoxy and block sand 120 through 1000, wet, keeping the block flat. Carbon has zero UV resistance, so finish with a UV-stable clear coat or paint. Uncoated carbon goes chalky and grey within a season outdoors.

Works onStructural repair of carbon parts: bike frames and tubes, hydrofoil masts and wings, rods, panels, boards, drone and RC parts.
Not forAnything safety-critical where failure means injury, such as a bike steerer or a mast, unless a composites professional inspects it.

If something goes wrong

Weave still looks grey

It is dry, not wet out. Stipple more epoxy in until it goes deep black or that layer has no strength.

Cloth frayed while cutting

Tape the cut line first, then cut through the tape.

Patch wrinkled on a curve

Cut on the 45 degree bias so the weave can shear and follow the shape.

Cloudy waxy film

Amine blush from humid curing. Wash with warm soapy water and scuff before the next coat.

Repair cracked at the edge

The taper was too short. Carbon wants roughly 20 to 1, much wider than fiberglass.

Carbon has no UV resistance. Always clear coat. For cosmetic surface work over an existing part, our Carbon Fiber Skinning Kit is the better tool.