
How to use this kit
Plain weave carbon, epoxy and fillers for structural composite repair. Every kit ships with this same sheet printed and in the box.
What is in the kit
- 1 Plain weave carbon fiber cloth, 6 x 50 inthe structural repair layers
- 10.7 oz Two-part epoxy kit8 oz resin plus 2.7 oz hardener, 3:1 by volume
- 1 1/2 in chopped carbon fiber fillerstructural bulking putty for gaps
- 1 Phenolic microballoons fillerlight, easy-sanding fairing filler
- 1 Fumed silica fillerthickens epoxy without adding weight
- 6 Wet/dry sandpaper120 through 1000 grit
- 5 / 10 / 10 Acid brushes, mixing sticks, measuring cups
- 1 / 1 pr 4 in plastic spreader, disposable gloves
You supply: denatured alcohol, 80 grit paper, masking tape, peel ply or packing tape for a smooth cure, and a dust mask.
Mixing epoxy (3:1 by volume)
| Ratio | 3 parts resin to 1 part hardener |
| Small batch | 3 oz resin + 1 oz hardener |
| Full kit | 8 oz resin + 2.7 oz hardener |
Measure by volume in the graduated cups. Off-ratio epoxy never fully cures. Confirm the ratio printed on your hardener bottle.
Stir 2 minutes scraping sides and bottom, then pour into a second cup and stir again before you use it.
The job, start to finish
Sand back and taper
Sand the break back to sound laminate with 80 grit and taper the edges well beyond the damage, about 20 times the skin thickness for carbon. Carbon is stiff, so a short taper concentrates load right at the patch edge and cracks again. Wipe with alcohol.
Cut on the bias
Cut carbon patches in increasing sizes, smallest first. Tape the cut line before cutting so the weave does not unravel. For a tube or a curve, cut on the 45 degree bias: bias-cut carbon drapes around compound shapes where a straight cut will bridge and wrinkle.
Fill and bulk
For a hole or a crushed section, mix epoxy with chopped carbon fiber into a structural putty and fill back to just under the surface. Use microballoons only for cosmetic fairing, never as structure, and fumed silica when you need to thicken without bulk.
Laminate
Brush epoxy on, lay the smallest patch, and stipple it out until the weave turns from grey to deep black, which is how you know it is fully wet. Add each larger patch the same way. Press peel ply or packing tape over the top for a smooth cure that needs less sanding.
Fair and clear
Fill the weave with microballoon-thickened epoxy and block sand 120 through 1000, wet, keeping the block flat. Carbon has zero UV resistance, so finish with a UV-stable clear coat or paint. Uncoated carbon goes chalky and grey within a season outdoors.
If something goes wrong
Weave still looks grey
It is dry, not wet out. Stipple more epoxy in until it goes deep black or that layer has no strength.
Cloth frayed while cutting
Tape the cut line first, then cut through the tape.
Patch wrinkled on a curve
Cut on the 45 degree bias so the weave can shear and follow the shape.
Cloudy waxy film
Amine blush from humid curing. Wash with warm soapy water and scuff before the next coat.
Repair cracked at the edge
The taper was too short. Carbon wants roughly 20 to 1, much wider than fiberglass.
Carbon has no UV resistance. Always clear coat. For cosmetic surface work over an existing part, our Carbon Fiber Skinning Kit is the better tool.