Frequently Asked Questions

Yes. 3M K1 glass bubbles sand and feather easily, which is what makes them well suited to fairing large surfaces with minimal weight gain. The soft K1 grade at 0.125 g/cc cuts faster than denser grades, so a fairing mix made with them blocks down quickly without loading up your paper.

Some are. High-density and fiber fillers like colloidal silica, milled glass fiber, and microfibers add real strength and are made for bonding and load-bearing fillets. Low-density fairing fillers like microballoons and glass bubbles are not structural; they are for shaping and fairing only. Build strength with a high-density filler first, then fair over it with a low-density filler.

They can be used with both epoxy and polyester resins, although they are more commonly paired with epoxy for superior bonding and moisture resistance.

Yes, Q-Cells create a fairing mix that is lightweight and easy to sand—one of their main advantages. This makes them a favorite among boatbuilders for final surface prep before painting.

No. Fairing compounds are not intended for structural applications. For bonding or reinforcing parts of your boat, use a structural epoxy thickened with high-strength filler like fiberglass chop strand.

No. Q-Cells are intended for fairing and cosmetic work, not for structural bonding. If strength is required, consider blending Q-Cells with a high-strength filler like colloidal silica or chopped fiberglass for reinforcement.

No, phenolic microballoons are designed for fairing and cosmetic work, not for structural bonding or load-bearing applications. For structural repairs, use a high-strength filler like colloidal silica.

Yes, Q-Cells are compatible with epoxy, polyester, and vinyl ester resins. They are extremely versatile for a wide range of applications in fiberglass and composite work.

Yes. 3M glass bubbles are non-hazardous and not regulated for transport, so they ship standard ground with no hazmat fees. The bags and jars are bulky for their weight because the product is so light, but there are no shipping restrictions.

Yes. ATH makes a dense but workable filler with good sanding characteristics, harder than a lightweight fairing mix but still fair-able. It is the better choice where you want a tough, smooth surface rather than minimum weight. For large fairing jobs, a glass-bubble filler sands lighter.

No. It creates a hard, dense bond line that is difficult to sand, so it is best for structural bonding and sag control rather than fairing. For an easy sanding fairing mix use a lightweight filler such as Q-Cells, 3M glass bubbles, or phenolic microballoons.

They are precision made soda lime borosilicate spheres with tightly controlled size and crush strength, so they give consistent density and durability in the mix. They are white, which keeps the cured filler light in color.

G18/500 is a denser, stronger grade at 0.18 g/cc and 500 psi crush strength, built to survive high-shear mixing and higher-pressure work. Our K1 is lighter and softer at 0.125 g/cc and 250 psi, so it sands more easily and suits general fairing. Particle size is similar between the two, so the real difference is density and crush strength, not size.

To use phenolic microballoons, mix them gradually into a two-part epoxy resin until you reach the desired consistency—typically a peanut butter-like texture for fairing applications. Always follow your epoxy manufacturer’s instructions for mixing ratios.

You can also use our Epoxy Calculator to help you determine the right quantities.

Both are lightweight fillers for fairing, but Q-Cells are made from hollow glass, which makes them slightly harder and more moisture-resistant than phenolic microballoons. Q-Cells may be slightly more difficult to sand but offer better compressive strength.

When heated it releases water and absorbs heat, which slows ignition and reduces smoke. The more ATH in the mix, the greater the effect.

Plan on about 2 quarts of fairing compound per 1 quart of mixed epoxy to reach a peanut-butter consistency that holds a vertical edge without sagging. Thicker mixes sand lighter and fair faster, while thinner mixes flow better into low spots. Add the powder slowly, mix to no dry pockets, and check the body on a stir stick before you trowel it on.

There is no fixed ratio. Mix the resin and hardener fully first, then stir in filler a little at a time until you reach the consistency the job needs:

• Ketchup consistency: for a coating or pre-coat that still flows.
• Mayonnaise consistency: for bonding parts together.
• Peanut-butter consistency that holds a peak: for filleting and gap-filling.

Add it slowly in small amounts. Start around 2 to 5 percent by volume and build to the consistency you want, from light sag control up to a thick peanut butter bonding paste. A little goes a long way, so add gradually to avoid over thickening.

ATH is a higher-density mineral filler, so it adds more weight than glass-bubble fillers like microballoons or Q-cells. Use it where flame resistance or a hard, smooth fill matters more than weight, and choose a lightweight filler when keeping weight down is the priority.

No. Fumed silica is non-hazardous and not regulated for transport, so it ships standard ground. It is a very light, fine powder, so the jars look large for the weight. Wear a dust mask when handling it, since the airborne dust is an irritant, but there are no hazmat shipping restrictions.

They are engineered hollow glass microspheres used as a lightweight fairing and bulking filler. Mixed into resin they produce a low density, easy sanding compound for fairing and shaping.

In boating, phenolic microballoons are often mixed with epoxy resin to create a fairing compound that is easy to sand and shape. This mixture is ideal for smoothing hulls, decks, and other surfaces before painting or finishing.

Phenolic microballoons are lightweight, hollow spheres made from phenolic resin. They are commonly used as a filler material in boatbuilding and composite repair to create fairing compounds, lightweight putties, and to reduce resin density.

Q-Cells are microscopic, hollow glass microspheres used as a lightweight filler in marine and composite applications. They are added to resin systems—typically epoxy, polyester, or vinyl ester—to create fairing compounds and low-density putties that are easy to sand and shape.

• Extremely lightweight
• Easy to sand once cured
• Low density, which reduces overall weight of the project
• Excellent for fairing and cosmetic applications

The Hawk Epoxy F-series fillers thicken the Hawk Epoxy system for different jobs and match common West System fillers:

• F1 High Load Adhesive Fiber Filler: the strong bonding filler, like 404.
• F2 Structural Adhesive Filler: the versatile thickener for bonding and filleting, like 406.
• F5 Light Density Fairing Filler: sands and carves easily.
• F6 MicroSphere Fairing Filler: the lightweight, easy-sanding fairing compound, like 410 Microlight.

Fairing compound is a smooth, sandable filler material used in boatbuilding and repair to fill surface imperfections, dents, and low spots. It is typically applied before painting or finishing to create a level, fair surface on hulls, decks, and other marine structures.

It is a flame retardant mineral filler. Added to resin, gelcoat, or casting compounds it improves fire and smoke resistance and adds body. It is also used as a smooth, sandable filler and in casting and solid surface work.

It is a thixotropic thickening additive. Mix it into epoxy, polyester, vinyl ester, gelcoat, or paint to control sag, create a non-slump paste for vertical and overhead bonding, and stop resin from draining out of joints and fillets.

To achieve a peanut butter-like consistency for troweling or fairing, mix approximately 2 parts Q-Cells to 1 part resin by volume. Adjust as needed depending on the desired thickness and application.

We supply 3M grade K1. The bubbles have a median particle size of about 65 microns, with a typical range of 30 to 115 microns and an effective top size near 120 microns. True density is 0.125 g/cc and the isostatic crush strength is about 250 psi, which makes K1 the lightest and easiest sanding grade in the 3M line.

Adhesive, high-density fillers like colloidal silica and microfibers make a hard, strong mix for bonding and structural filleting, but they are tough to sand. Fairing, low-density fillers like microballoons and glass bubbles make a light, soft mix that sands and feathers easily for a smooth surface, but they are not structural. Use adhesive fillers for strength and fairing fillers for finish.

Each West System filler is tuned to a different job:

• 406 Colloidal Silica: the versatile thickener for bonding and filleting; controls sag on vertical and overhead work.
• 404 High Density: the strongest, for hardware bonding under high load.
• 403 Microfibers: add toughness for structural filleting and gap-filling.
• 405 Filleting Blend: a natural wood-tone fillet that sands easily.
• 410 Microlight: the low-density fairing filler that sands the easiest over large areas.

Match the filler to the job, and keep strength fillers below the surface with fairing fillers on top:

• Bonding and structural fillets: use a high-density or fiber filler like colloidal silica (Cabosil), milled fiber, or microfibers, which cure hard and strong.
• Fairing and shaping: use a low-density filler like phenolic microballoons, glass bubbles, or a fairing compound, which sand and feather easily.

Low-density microsphere fillers sand the easiest. Phenolic microballoons, 3M glass bubbles, and lightweight blends like our fairing compound or West System 410 Microlight feather to a fine edge and carve with little effort once cured. They trade strength for sandability, so use them above the structural layer for shaping and smoothing, not for bonding or load-bearing fillets.

Fumed silica works with epoxy, polyester, vinyl ester, gelcoat, and paint. It is compatible with two-part marine epoxies and with catalyzed polyester and vinyl ester systems, thickening any of them into a non-sag paste for bonding, gap-filling, and making thixotropic gelcoat and resin. Add it slowly, since a little sharply raises viscosity.

3M glass bubbles mix into epoxy, polyester, and vinyl ester resin. They are most often used in epoxy fairing compounds, where their low density keeps weight down while building a sandable, void-filling body. Add them to mixed resin until you reach a light, creamy, easy-to-spread fairing consistency.

ATH mixes into epoxy, polyester, and vinyl ester resin. It is a mineral filler used mainly for flame resistance and for a hard, dense, smooth fill. Add it to mixed resin to the body you need. Because it is denser than glass fillers, use it where fire resistance or a hard surface matters more than weight.

It sands moderately: firmer than a fairing filler but workable. For a fully fair finish, blend it with or top it with a lightweight fairing filler. On its own it is better for adding strength and body than for a smooth, finished surface.

Not really. It is a structural reinforcement, not a fairing filler: the fibers make a tough mass that does not sand cleanly. The right sequence is to reinforce with chopped strand first, then fair over it with a lightweight filler once it has cured.

Yes. Cotton flock is non-hazardous and not regulated for transport, so it ships standard ground with no hazmat fees. It is a light, fluffy fiber, so a little fills a lot of volume; expect a bulky package for the weight.

Add the chopped strand gradually into fully mixed resin while stirring to distribute the fibers evenly. Continue adding until the mixture reaches your desired thickness—typically a stiff, trowelable consistency for bonding and structural filleting.

Cotton flock makes a very tough, impact-resistant mix that shapes and machines better than glass-fiber fillers and is less itchy to work with. It feels heavier than microballoon fillers but is far stronger, which makes it a favorite for structural fillets and high-strength bonds in epoxy.

Milled fiber is a fine, short glass-fiber powder that blends smoothly and is easy to work, while chopped strand uses longer fibers for greater strength. Milled fiber sits between a thickener and a structural filler: use it to add body and modest reinforcement, and step up to chopped strand where you need maximum strength.

1/4 inch chopped strand uses longer fibers for more tensile strength and crack resistance, while milled fiber is a fine powder used more for thickening and reinforcing thin layers. Reach for chopped strand where you want maximum added strength in a fillet or bond, and reach for milled fiber where you want body with an easier, smoother mix.

Stir milled fiber into mixed resin until you reach the body and reinforcement you need, anywhere from a lightly thickened resin up to a stiff paste. More fiber adds strength and stand-up, less keeps it flowable. Add it gradually and mix to no dry clumps before you use it.

Add chopped strand to mixed resin until you reach a thick, fiber-rich paste. More fiber gives more strength but a stiffer, harder-to-work mix, while less fiber gives a smoother, easier mix with less reinforcement. For structural fillets and bonds, go fiber-heavy; for general gap-filling, keep it looser.

For structural filler applications, a good starting point is 1 to 1.5 quarts of chopped strand per 1 quart of resin. Adjust based on the desired consistency and level of reinforcement needed.

No. Cotton flock is tough and not intended for fairing: it sands hard and ragged. Use it for strong bonds and fillets, then fair over it with a lightweight filler when you need a smooth, finished surface.

1/2 inch chopped strand fiberglass reinforces epoxy, polyester, or vinyl ester resin for bonding, gap-filling, transom repair, stringer work, and any layup that needs added strength and durability. Stir it into mixed resin to make a tough, fiber-rich paste that grips into corners and bond lines where cloth will not lay down.

1/2" chopped strand fiberglass is made from short lengths of glass fiber, each cut to approximately half an inch. It is used as a reinforcement filler in resin systems to improve mechanical strength, stiffness, and bonding in structural and repair applications.

It is loose, 1/4 inch chopped E-glass fiber that you mix into resin to add strength, build thickness, and reinforce repairs, fillets, and bonds. It is a structural filler rather than a fairing filler.

It is fine cotton fiber that you mix into resin to make a tough, gap filling adhesive and fillet putty. It adds strength and abrasion resistance and is excellent for structural bonds and filleting.

It is finely milled glass fiber used to thicken resin and add reinforcement. It improves the strength of fillers and adhesives and helps prevent cracking in thin bond lines and fillets.

It works with epoxy, polyester, and vinyl ester resin, which makes it a versatile reinforcing filler for most marine composite work. Epoxy is the pick for structural bonds and wood, while polyester and vinyl ester suit production and gelcoat repair. Mix the fiber into catalyzed resin just before you need it, since pot life drops as you add filler.

Milled fiber mixes into epoxy, polyester, and vinyl ester resin. It blends smoothly into any of them to add body and reinforcement for bonding and thin laminates. Stir it into mixed resin to the consistency you need, from a thickened resin up to a stiff paste, just before you lay it up.

It works with epoxy, polyester, and vinyl ester resin. Epoxy is the usual pick for structural bonds and wood, while polyester and vinyl ester suit production and gelcoat repair. Stir the chopped strand into catalyzed resin to a thick, fiber-rich paste right before use, since pot life shortens as you add fiber.

Cotton flock works with epoxy, polyester, and vinyl ester resin, and it is most common in epoxy filleting and bonding. Stir it into mixed resin to a smooth, tough paste. It is prized for strong structural fillets rather than fairing, so fair over it with a lightweight filler if you need a smooth finish.

Yes. With the right resin, 10 oz fiberglass cloth bonds to wood, metal, foam, and cured fiberglass. Use epoxy for wood and metal, since it grips those substrates far better than polyester. Prep matters more than the cloth: sand to clean, bare material, remove all dust and oil, and wet out the surface before laying the cloth down.

Yes, epoxy resin is ideal for wetting out fiberglass cloth and other reinforcements like carbon fiber and Kevlar. It saturates the fabric well and cures into a strong, durable laminate.

Most surfacing veils are designed with a binder that dissolves in polyester resin. For use with epoxy, make sure to use a veil specifically rated for epoxy compatibility.

No, it’s not intended for structural strength. It’s a cosmetic layer that improves surface quality and helps hide fabric weave or print-through.

Use sharp scissors or a utility knife. To reduce fraying, you can lightly mist the cloth with water or use tape to mark the cutting line.

It is laid on the surface of a mold or laminate and saturated with resin. It conforms easily and becomes nearly invisible after wet-out, providing a smooth finish.

The weight refers to ounces per square yard. Lighter cloth (e.g., 4oz) is more flexible and used for fine finishing; heavier cloth (e.g., 10oz) provides more strength and bulk.

Fiberglass cloth is used to reinforce composite materials in applications like boat building, surfboard repairs, auto bodywork, and structural laminates. It’s combined with resin to form a strong, lightweight composite.

Surfacing veil is used to create a smooth, resin-rich outer layer on composite parts and to prevent print-through from underlying fiberglass fabrics or reinforcements.

Fiberglass cloth works with all three marine resins: epoxy, polyester, and vinyl ester. Unlike chopped strand mat, woven cloth has no emulsion binder to dissolve, so it wets out cleanly in any of them. Epoxy gives the strongest, clearest bond and is the standard for wood and structural work, while polyester and vinyl ester are common for production and gelcoat repair.

Surfacing veil is typically 10 mil thick, the standard for most mold and cosmetic work. The veil is a thin layer of fine fiber laid as the surface ply to hold extra resin, block print-through from the heavier glass underneath, and give a smoother, easier-to-finish surface. Heavier veils exist for thicker resin-rich layers, but 10 mil covers most jobs.

Absolutely. It's commonly used between layers of fiberglass cloth or woven roving to add bulk and prevent print-through in gelcoats or top layers.

Yes, and you usually should. Woven roving builds thickness fast but has a coarse weave, so it is almost always alternated with chopped strand mat: the mat fills the weave and ties the layers together for a stronger, void-free laminate. A common schedule is mat, roving, mat. Finish with cloth or mat for a smoother surface.

While technically possible, it’s not practical. Gun roving is designed for mechanical application and isn’t suitable for hand lay-up without pre-chopping.

Yes, it's important to use a fiberglass roller to eliminate air bubbles and ensure proper wet-out during lay-up. This improves the strength and finish of the final part.

CSM can be easily cut with scissors or a utility knife. For complex curves or better blending of layers, it can be torn by hand to help it conform to the mold shape more easily.

Use sharp heavy-duty scissors or shears. Because of its thickness, it may be harder to trim cleanly than lighter fiberglass cloth.

0.75 oz chopped strand mat is about 0.022–0.025 inches thick (≈0.6 mm) in dry form. Once resin is applied and rolled, it compresses closer to 0.5 mm. This lightweight mat is excellent for tight curves, cosmetic layers, and small repairs.

Woven roving is much thicker and heavier than standard fiberglass cloth. It’s used for strength and bulk, while cloth is typically used for finishing or lightweight laminates.

On average, you’ll need about 1.2 to 1.5 times the weight of the mat in resin. For example, 1.5 oz CSM will require roughly 20–25 oz of resin per yard. Use our Epoxy Calculator to estimate your resin needs, adjusting for polyester if necessary.

2 oz fiberglass mat is approximately 0.060 inches thick (about 1.5 mm) in its dry form. Once resin is applied and rolled out, the thickness compresses closer to 1.0 mm depending on resin content and pressure.

It’s relatively stiff compared to other fiberglass fabrics, but it can still conform to gradual curves with proper wet-out and pressure.

CSM is ideal for hand lay-up and open-mold applications. It’s used in boat building, mold making, and general fiberglass repair to create strong laminates, fill voids, and provide a smooth finish when layered with polyester resin.

Chopped strand mat (CSM) is a non-woven fiberglass reinforcement made from randomly distributed glass fibers held together with a binder. It’s commonly used in composite layups for its affordability, ease of use, and excellent bulk-building properties.

Gun roving is a continuous strand fiberglass material specifically designed for use in chopper guns. It's chopped into short strands during spraying and combined with resin for rapid laminate buildup.

Fiberglass mat tape is a narrow strip of chopped strand mat used to reinforce seams, corners, and repairs without cutting into a full roll. It wets out fast and builds thickness quickly, so it is ideal for tabbing bulkheads, joining panels, and patching holes. Because it is chopped strand mat with a styrene-soluble binder, use it with polyester or vinyl ester resin, not epoxy, which does not break down the binder for a full wet-out.

Woven roving is a heavy-duty fiberglass fabric made from continuous strands woven into a coarse, crisscross pattern. It provides high tensile strength and is ideal for structural laminates in marine and industrial applications.

Chopped strand mat is made for polyester and vinyl ester resin, not epoxy. The mat is held together with a styrene-soluble emulsion binder, and the styrene in polyester and vinyl ester dissolves that binder so the mat conforms and wets out. Epoxy has no styrene, so the binder never breaks down and the mat stays stiff and resin-starved. Use cloth or stitched fabric with epoxy instead.

Woven roving works well with polyester, vinyl ester, and epoxy resins. Polyester is common in boatbuilding, while epoxy is preferred for repairs and higher strength applications.

Gun roving is compatible with polyester, vinyl ester, and some epoxy resins, depending on the sizing used on the fibers.

Chopped strand mat comes in three weights: 3/4 oz, 1.5 oz, and 2 oz per square foot. For most repair and layup work, 1.5 oz is the right call: it's the workhorse weight for building thickness and tying together layers of woven roving or cloth.

Drop to 3/4 oz when you need to conform to tight curves or lay a clean first layer behind gelcoat. Step up to 2 oz to build thickness fast on large, flat areas.

One ply of 1.5 oz mat lays up about 0.035 to 0.045 inch thick, so divide your target laminate thickness by that to get your ply count. CSM is built for polyester and vinyl ester resin, not epoxy.

Gun roving allows faster application and conformability to complex shapes. It also reduces labor and waste compared to cutting and placing traditional mats.

Fiberglass cloth is woven for strength in specific directions, while chopped strand mat is made of randomly oriented fibers and is better for building bulk.

It’s widely used in high-volume manufacturing, marine, automotive, and industrial applications where fast coverage and thickness buildup are needed.

Yes, you can use epoxy resin with 1708 biaxial fiberglass because it has a stitched mat instead of a chemical binder like chopped strand mat.

1708 weighs about 2 lb per linear yard. The number describes the build: 17 oz biaxial glass stitched at plus and minus 45 degrees, backed by a thin chopped strand mat. The mat face bonds down into the layer beneath it, which is why 1708 is the go-to single-ply reinforcement for transoms and stringers.

It’s used in marine repairs, boat hulls, surfboards, structural panels, and any application where multi-directional strength is needed.

1208 biaxial fiberglass is a stitched reinforcement fabric made of two layers of 12 oz fiberglass cloth oriented at ±45° angles, with a light ¾ oz chopped strand mat (CSM) backing. It offers excellent multidirectional strength and is compatible with polyester, vinyl ester, and epoxy resins.

1808 is a heavy-duty stitched fiberglass fabric made of two layers of 18 oz ±45° biaxial fabric with a ¾ oz chopped strand mat (CSM) backing. It provides excellent multidirectional reinforcement for structural applications.

Biaxial fiberglass is a type of fiberglass fabric where the fibers are stitched together in two directions—typically at +45° and -45° angles or 0° and 90°. Unlike woven fiberglass, the fibers in biaxial cloth are not interlaced, but rather laid flat and stitched, which improves strength and drapability.

Unlike woven cloth, biaxial fiberglass is stitched, not woven, so it lays flatter, wets out faster, and provides superior load distribution without crimped fibers.

The number refers to the weight: 1708 is 17 oz stitched fabric with an 8 oz chopped strand mat backing. 1808 is similar but with 18 oz stitched fabric. The mat backing improves bond strength with polyester resin.

Biaxial fabric works well with polyester, vinyl ester, and epoxy resins. Be sure to choose the right resin system for your project and material compatibility.

The main difference is weight. 1208 is lighter (approx. 18 oz total per square yard) compared to 1708 (approx. 25 oz total). 1208 is better for lighter structural needs or where ease of wet-out and flexibility are important, while 1708 offers more bulk and stiffness.

Yes, epoxy resin is the most commonly used resin with carbon fiber, providing a strong, durable bond for structural and cosmetic applications.

Yes. Chopped carbon fiber works with epoxy, polyester, and vinyl ester resin. Epoxy is the usual choice for structural carbon work because it bonds better and is less brittle. Stir the fiber into mixed resin to the consistency you need, then wet it out fully so there are no dry fibers left in the layup.

Carbon fiber is stiffer, stronger, and lighter than fiberglass, but also more expensive. It’s used when performance and weight savings are critical.

Carbon fiber has a tensile strength around 500,000 psi and is roughly five times stronger than steel by weight, which is why it is used where stiffness and low weight both matter. Real-world laminate strength depends on resin, fiber orientation, and layup quality, so a strong carbon panel comes from good wet-out and proper ply orientation, not the fabric alone.

Biaxial carbon fiber fabric has two layers of fiber stitched at plus and minus 45 degrees, so it resists the twisting and shear loads that a single-direction weave cannot. The 45-degree orientation spreads force evenly, which makes it the go-to for torsional stiffness in masts, shafts, hulls, and high-stress panels. Wet it out with epoxy or vinyl ester resin and add layers to build the stiffness your structure needs.

Carbon fiber is a high-strength, lightweight material made from thin strands of carbon. It’s used in aerospace, marine, automotive, sporting goods, and composite construction for its superior strength-to-weight ratio.

Chopped carbon fiber is added to epoxy, polyester, or vinyl ester resin to boost strength and stiffness without the bulk of woven fabric. Shops use it for reinforcing fillets and bond lines, casting small structural parts, and molded forged-carbon parts where you want the carbon look and high strength in a flowable mix. It is reinforcement, not a fairing filler.

Shorter 1/4 inch fiber blends smoother and works into tight fillets and thin sections more easily, giving a cleaner finish. Longer 1/2 inch fiber carries more load and adds more crack resistance, so reach for it where structural reinforcement matters more than surface smoothness. Many shops keep both and pick by the job.

The main difference is in the weave pattern and flexibility. Twill weave has a diagonal pattern (over 2, under 2), while plain weave has a tighter checkerboard pattern (over 1, under 1).

Use 2x2 twill when you're working with curved surfaces or want a sleek, visible finish. Use plain weave for flat surfaces, structural reinforcement, or areas that will be painted or hidden.

Yes, but cold slows the cure and thickens the resin. Below about 60°F most epoxies cure slowly and can stay tacky, and below freezing they may not cure at all. Warm the resin and hardener to room temperature before mixing, heat the work area, and choose a fast hardener for low temperatures. Never add solvent to thin cold epoxy, since that weakens the cured bond.

Avoid thinning for structural work. If absolutely needed, advanced users may add ≤5% styrene. Do not use acetone to thin.

Yes, epoxy resin can be tinted using compatible pigments or dyes. This is often done for cosmetic finishes, artistic projects, or color-coding repairs.

Yes, polyester resin can be tinted using compatible pigments. This is often done to match gelcoat colors or create custom finishes.

Most CSM is designed for polyester or vinyl ester resin because the binder in standard mat doesn’t dissolve in epoxy. However, epoxy-compatible chopped strand mat is available and should be used if you’re working with epoxy systems.

No, you should not use polyester resin on EPS foam (expanded polystyrene). Polyester resin contains styrene, a solvent that dissolves EPS foam on contact. This reaction will ruin your foam core and release harmful fumes. If you're working with EPS foam—for example, in surfboard shaping or foam core laminates—you should instead use epoxy resin, which is chemically compatible and safe for EPS.

No, polyester resin does not adhere well to cured epoxy. However, epoxy can be applied over cured polyester if the surface is properly prepared and sanded.

Yes. West System 105 must be used with a compatible hardener (205 Fast, 206 Slow, or 207 Special Clear) to cure properly.

Yes, resin has a shelf life. Unopened epoxy resin and hardener usually last one to several years stored cool and sealed, though hardener may darken without losing strength. Polyester resin and gelcoat are shorter lived, often six months to a year, because the styrene and promoters break down. MEKP also weakens over time, so old catalyst can leave resin undercured.

Yes. Each Silmar 249 clear polyester surfboard resin purchase includes the right amount of MEKP catalyst for the volume you buy. Polyester takes catalyst, not hardener, so you add MEKP by percentage to control cure speed. Follow the catalyst chart for your working temperature, and mix only what you can use before it kicks.

Follow the specific mix ratio provided by the manufacturer (commonly 2:1 or 1:1 by volume). Mix thoroughly in a clean container, scraping the sides and bottom, until the blend is uniform and streak-free.

The best way is to warm it, not add solvent. Stand the resin and hardener in warm water or a warm room and the viscosity drops so it wets out and brushes more easily. Acetone or lacquer thinner does lower viscosity but weakens the cured epoxy and can stop it from fully curing, so keep solvents out of structural mixes. Warm the surface too for a thinner film.

Polyester resin cures in about 20–30 minutes at room temperature when mixed with MEKP (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide) catalyst. Cure time can vary with temperature and catalyst ratio.

To wet out a full 50" wide yard of the 1708 biaxial fiberglass you'll need about 30oz of epoxy resin. This is a thick layup with stitched core and mat, which yields a strong result.

The amount you need depends on your project's size and type. Use our free Epoxy Calculator to estimate the correct quantity based on area and number of layers.

Catalyze polyester and vinyl ester resin at about 1% to 2% MEKP by volume, with 1.25% to 1.5% a common starting point near 70°F, or roughly 1.5 to 2 ounces per gallon. Use less in heat and more in cold, and stay between about 1% and 3%. Too little leaves it soft and undercured; too much cracks the resin and cures it too fast to work.

It depends on the surface area, fabric weight, and number of layers. As a rule of thumb, 1 gallon covers about 12–15 square feet with 3 layers of fiberglass cloth. For precise measurements, use our Epoxy Calculator — it works for polyester too with similar coverage rates.

Fiberglass mat typically requires about 1.5 to 2 times its weight in resin to fully saturate. For more info, use our Resin Calculator

For example: 1 lb of mat will need approximately 1.5 to 2 lbs of resin.Keep in mind, most resins weigh around 9.5 lbs per gallon.

Generally yes, as long as it wasn't frozen repeatedly or for an extended period — but it depends on the product and how it was handled.

What freezing does to epoxy:

• Resin (Part A): Can cause crystallization or cloudiness. This looks alarming but is usually reversible — gentle warming (100–120°F water bath) and stirring typically restores it to normal.
• Hardener (Part B): More sensitive. Some hardeners (especially amine-based) can be damaged by freezing, becoming cloudy or separating in ways that don't fully reverse.
• Packaged kits: Pre-measured kits sitting frozen in a warehouse are typically fine — many manufacturers actually ship in cold weather without issue.

It depends on your application:

• High-strength bonding
• Structural bonding
• Fairing (easy sanding)
• Ultra-lightweight fairing

Amine blush is a waxy film that forms on curing epoxy as it reacts with moisture and carbon dioxide in the air, most often in cool, humid conditions. Left on, it blocks adhesion of the next coat, paint, or gelcoat. Wash the cured surface with plain water and a Scotch-Brite pad, dry it, then sand. West System 207 hardener is formulated to resist blushing.

Polyester resin is widely used for building and repairing fiberglass boats. It is ideal for laminating fiberglass cloth, molding parts, and creating gelcoat finishes. It’s cost-effective and works well for general-purpose repairs.

Silmar 249 is the industry standard polyester laminating resin for surfboard construction. It’s also used in other composite projects where a clear, durable finish is required.

At about 77 degrees F, Hi-Bond polyester resin gives roughly 8 to 15 minutes of pot life depending on mix size and MEKP percentage, is sandable in about 2 to 3 hours, and reaches full cure in about 6 to 8 hours. Warmer temperatures and more catalyst speed it up, cooler temperatures slow it down. Mix only what you can use inside the pot life.

Vinyl Ester Resin is a premium-grade resin designed for projects requiring superior strength, stiffness, and chemical resistance. Unlike polyester resins, this vinyl ester offers exceptional thermal tolerance and durability, making it the preferred choice for boat building, automotive, industrial, and high-performance composite applications.

CSM, woven cloth, roving, and biaxials (e.g., 1208/1708). Not for SMC/non-polyester plastics. Avoid EPS foam; safe with PVC, PET, PU cores.

Use acetone to wipe off uncured polyester resin (MEK or polyester thinner also work); once it’s cured, removal is strictly mechanical—scrape and sand. For more tips, read the full blog post

Epoxy resin provides better adhesion, moisture resistance, and flexibility compared to polyester resin. While polyester is more economical and widely used in mass production, epoxy is preferred for high-performance applications, repairs, and situations requiring a strong bond.

Hardener speed sets your working time and cure time, not the final strength. A fast hardener like West 205 gives a short pot life, around 9 to 15 minutes, and cures quickly, which suits cool weather and small batches. A slow hardener like West 206 stretches working time and cures well in heat. Match the hardener to your temperature and batch size, and keep the ratio the maker specifies.

Laminating (layup) resin stays slightly tacky as it cures so the next layer of glass bonds chemically without sanding. Finishing resin has a wax or surfacing agent that rises to the top, sealing out air so the last coat cures hard and sands clean. Most marine polyester is laminating resin, so add surfacing wax to the final coat when you are ready to sand and finish.

Choose vinyl ester when you need more strength, stiffness, and water and chemical resistance than polyester but do not want the cost of epoxy. It is the standard for blister-resistant hull skins, below-waterline repairs, and tanks. Vinyl ester bonds to polyester laminates better than epoxy does and catalyzes with MEKP like polyester, so it drops straight into a polyester layup schedule.

Choose based on temperature, working time, and project type:

• Best for cool temperatures or quick repairs.
• Ideal for general use in moderate to warm temps.
• For clear finishes and brightwork.
• Best for hot climates and large laminations.

The ratio is fixed by the resin and hardener chemistry, not by strength, so each system has its own ratio you must follow exactly. West System uses 5 parts resin to 1 part hardener, while our Boat Suppliers hardeners come in 2:1, 3:1, and 4:1 versions. A lower ratio like 2:1 means more hardener by volume and is easier to measure. Choose cure speed by hardener type, never by changing the ratio.

Chopped strand mat (CSM) is incompatible with epoxy because of the binder used to hold the fibers together.

CSM is manufactured with a styrene-soluble binde, typically a polyester-based powder or emulsion binder, that holds the randomly oriented glass fibers in mat form. This binder is specifically designed to dissolve when it contacts styrene monomer, which is present in polyester and vinylester resins. That dissolution is what allows the mat to conform, wet out, and laminate properly with those resins.

In many cases, yes—but surface preparation is key. If you're using the same type of paint, you may just need to clean and sand the existing coat lightly. If switching paint types, it’s important to ensure compatibility or consider stripping the old paint first. Always check the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Yes. For small repairs you can brush or roll gelcoat, though spraying gives the smoothest finish. Thin it about 5% to 10% with styrene so it flows out and self-levels, catalyze with MEKP, and add surfacing wax to the last coat. Work in thin coats to avoid runs, and plan to sand and buff afterward since some brush marks are normal.

It is not recommended. Polyester gelcoat bonds well to polyester and vinyl ester laminates but adheres poorly to epoxy. If you must gelcoat over epoxy, let the epoxy fully cure, wash off any amine blush, sand it thoroughly, and expect a weaker bond. For epoxy repairs, a two-part polyurethane topcoat is usually the better finish.

Only if you are using unwaxed (sanding) gelcoat. Unwaxed gelcoat stays tacky on the surface because air stops polyester from curing, so you add surfacing wax to the final coat, or spray PVA over it, to seal out air and cure it hard for sanding. Gelcoat sold with wax already contains it and cures tack-free on its own.

Stir Evertex non-skid additive into gelcoat or paint before rolling it on, or broadcast it onto the wet coating and lock it down with a clear topcoat. Adjust the amount to control how aggressive the texture feels underfoot: more additive for high-traffic decks, less for a subtle grip.

Clean and sand the surface, then catalyze the gelcoat with MEKP and lay it down in two to three coats. Spray it at about 18 to 20 mils wet, or brush and roll thinner coats, letting each one flash before the next. Because polyester gelcoat is air-inhibited, the final coat needs surfacing wax (or a PVA film) to cure tack-free so you can sand and buff it.

You can calculate the approximate amount of antifouling paint you need using this formula:

Boat Hull Area (sq ft) = Length x Beam x 0.85

Gallons Needed = Hull Area ÷ Paint Coverage per Gallon

For example, if your boat is 30 feet long with a 10-foot beam:

• 
  255 sq ft
  
• 
  
  
• 
  0.64 gallons per coat
  

For two coats, you'll need approximately 1.3 gallons.

Use our Boat Paint Calculator for a quick, custom estimate.

Stir the liquid pigment into the resin or gelcoat before you add the catalyst or hardener, mixing until the color is even with no streaks. Keep pigment to about 10% of the resin by weight at most, since too much pigment can stop the resin from curing fully. Our pigments work in polyester, epoxy, vinyl ester, and gelcoat. Add the MEKP or hardener last, then apply.

Start with a neutral or white base gelcoat and add polyester-compatible pigments a little at a time, testing on a scrap or hidden spot until the cured color matches. Cure shifts the shade slightly, so judge the match after it kicks, not while wet. Older hulls fade, so you may need to tint a little off the original to blend. For a solid white hull, a pure white gelcoat often matches with no tinting.

Clean the area with acetone, then sand or grind the damage to a slight V so fresh gelcoat can key in. Mask around it, mix gelcoat with the right amount of MEKP, and add surfacing wax to the final coat so it cures tack-free. Apply slightly proud of the surface, let it cure, then wet-sand from coarse to fine and buff to a gloss. Match the color first with pigment on larger or visible repairs.

Thin polyester gelcoat with styrene, not acetone, at about 5% to 10% by volume. Styrene lowers viscosity so the gelcoat atomizes and flows out smoothly while keeping the resin chemistry intact, whereas acetone just flashes off and can leave the film weak and porous. Add the styrene before the MEKP, and stay at or below 10% so you do not weaken the cured coat.

As a rule of thumb, one gallon of gelcoat covers about 45 to 50 square feet at the 18 to 20 mil thickness a durable finish needs, so a quart covers roughly 12 square feet. Tooling and heavy color coats go thicker, and spraying loses some to overspray, so order 10% to 20% extra for the job.

Catalyze polyester gelcoat at about 1% to 2% MEKP by volume, with 1.25% a good starting point near 70°F. That works out to roughly 1.5 to 2.5 ounces of MEKP per gallon of gelcoat. Use a little less in hot weather and more when it is cold, and always follow the ratio printed on your MEKP. Do not exceed about 3%, which can crack or discolor the coat.

Start light and test on a sample first. More additive gives a coarser, more aggressive grip, while less gives a subtle texture.

The frequency of reapplication depends on several factors, including the type of paint used, your boat’s usage, and local water conditions. On average, most boats need a fresh coat every 12 to 24 months. If your boat stays in the water year-round or you’re in warmer climates with high fouling activity, more frequent maintenance may be required.

Not all antifouling paints are safe for aluminum. Some contain cuprous oxide, which is corrosive to aluminum. For aluminum hulls, choose a copper-free antifouling paint specifically formulated for use on metal surfaces.

Antifouling bottom paint is a specialized coating applied to the hull of a boat to prevent marine organisms like barnacles, algae, and slime from attaching. These growths can slow your boat down, increase fuel consumption, and cause long-term hull damage. Applying antifouling paint helps protect your investment and ensures optimal performance.

Clear gelcoat is a transparent, pigment-free coat used where you want to see the laminate underneath, such as over carbon fiber, wood, or decorative layups, and as a protective topcoat. It also works as a clear base over tinted repairs. Like other unwaxed gelcoat, the final clear coat needs surfacing wax or PVA to cure tack-free.

Neutral gelcoat is an uncolored base you tint with gelcoat pigment to match almost any color. It is the go-to for custom color matching and for repairs where an off-the-shelf white or black will not blend. Add pigment up to the maker's limit, usually around 10%, catalyze with MEKP, and it sprays or brushes like any other gelcoat.

It is a fine aggregate you mix into gelcoat, paint, or clear coatings to create a slip resistant, textured non-skid surface on decks, steps, swim platforms, and walkways.

This primer adheres well to fiberglass, composites, gel coat, wood, and properly prepared metals. For best results, ensure the surface is clean, dry, and properly sanded.

Hard antifouling paints provide a tough finish that resists abrasion and is suitable for high-speed boats or frequent trailer use. Ablative (or self-polishing) paints wear away slowly over time, constantly exposing fresh biocide to the surface. Ablative coatings are ideal for boats that remain in the water and need consistent fouling protection.

Liquid pigment is a concentrated colorant that gives solid, even color, so it is the choice for matching gelcoat or coloring a laminate. Mica powder is an ultra-fine pearlescent powder that adds a metallic shimmer and depth instead of flat color, which suits clear casting, resin art, tumblers, and decorative finishes. Both work in epoxy, polyester, vinyl ester, and gelcoat. Use liquid pigment for true color and mica for sparkle and pearl effects.

Opaque pigments like carbon black and titanium white fully hide what is under them and give a solid color, which is what you want for gelcoat and most colored laminates. Transparent pigments tint the resin while still letting light pass through, so the weave or what is beneath stays visible, which suits clear casting, tinted coatings, and decorative work. Choose opaque for solid color and transparent for a see-through tint.

Tooling gelcoat is a harder, more heat-resistant, high-gloss formula made for building fiberglass molds, not finished parts. Backed by tooling resin, it gives a mirror mold surface with excellent release and holds up to repeated part pulls. Orange and black are common because the strong color makes pinholes and thin spots easy to see. Standard gelcoat is for the finished part's exterior.

Waxed gelcoat has an additive that rises to the surface as it cures, sealing out air so the coat hardens tack-free and is ready to sand. Unwaxed (sanding) gelcoat has no additive, so it stays tacky until you add surfacing wax to the final coat or cover it with PVA. Use unwaxed when you plan to lay more coats, and use waxed for the last coat.

The best antifouling paint depends on your boat type, speed, hull material, and local water conditions. For example, a sailboat in saltwater might need a different product than a trailerable fishing boat in freshwater. Visit our Antifouling Bottom Paint collection to browse top products and detailed descriptions tailored to your boating environment.

Add Evertex to gelcoat, paint, epoxy, polyester, and vinyl ester coatings. It is a fine polymer powder that blends into any of them without changing the color, so you get a durable, slip-resistant texture in your existing deck finish. Mix it in before you coat, or broadcast it onto the wet coat.

A tacky surface almost always means air-inhibited cure, not too little catalyst. Unwaxed gelcoat will not harden on top until you add surfacing wax to the final coat or seal it with PVA. Other causes are too little MEKP, temperatures below about 60°F, or high humidity. Confirm your catalyst ratio, warm the shop, and wax or PVA the last coat.

No. Evertex is designed to disappear into the coating and take on its color, so the finished non-skid surface keeps the color of your gelcoat or paint. It adds texture, not tint. If you want a contrasting non-skid, tint the coating itself and the additive will not fight the color you choose.

Yes. You can pour in multiple layers, waiting 15–20 minutes between pours. This method helps control expansion and ensures complete curing without overheating.

Yes, you can pour foam into molds. For easy release, use a mold release wax like Partall #2 or line the mold with smooth plastic sheeting. Porous molds should be sealed before applying wax.

Foam expansion is temperature-sensitive. For best results, both the foam and the working environment should be around 80°F. At 50°F, expansion can be reduced by 50% or more. Warm the product before use if needed.

Yes, with care. Calculate the internal volume, and make sure the cavity is dry and sealed. The foam only flows a few feet before it expands, so for long, narrow spaces, over 5 feet long or under 2 inches across, results vary and you should test first. See our full guide on filling pontoons with foam.

No. This is pour-in-place foam, not spray foam. You mix the two parts, pour the liquid into the cavity, and it expands to fill and harden. Spray foam uses different chemistry and equipment. For flotation, coring, and filling voids, pour foam is the right product: just pour in lifts and let each rise before adding more.

Measure the volume of the space in cubic feet (length × width × height). Each cubic foot requires about 2 quarts of liquid foam (combined Part A and B).

Measure equal parts A and B by volume, mix hard for about 20 to 30 seconds, then pour into a dry, contained cavity and let it rise. It foams in seconds and cures rigid and closed-cell, so it resists water and adds flotation. Work between about 75°F and 80°F for a full rise, fill deep cavities in layers, and pour only as much as you can mix in one batch.

Expansion depends on density, since lighter foam rises more from the same liquid. As a guide, a 2-quart kit of 2 lb foam yields roughly 2.5 cubic feet, and a 2-gallon kit yields around 10 cubic feet; higher-density foams expand less for the same kit. Because it rises fast and far, pour into a contained space and fill deep cavities in layers so it does not overflow.

Once Parts A and B are mixed, you’ll have roughly 45 seconds before expansion begins. Stir vigorously for about 25 seconds, then pour immediately. The foam expands fully in about 5 minutes and hardens in 15 minutes.

Yes. Once cured, urethane foam is resistant to gasoline, acetone, and most solvents. It cannot be dissolved—only mechanically removed by sanding or scraping.

Density is the cured weight per cubic foot, and it sets the foam's strength. Higher density means more strength but less expansion per kit:

• 2 lb: the standard for flotation and filling voids under decks and seats, the most common marine choice.
• 4 lb and 8 lb: stronger and stiffer for transoms, stringers, and structural coring.
• 16 lb: a high-strength structural and tooling foam.

Coremat is a thin polyester bulking mat filled with microspheres that adds thickness and stiffness to a fiberglass laminate while using less resin than extra glass. It also controls print-through so the weave does not telegraph to the surface. Lay it between glass layers, wet it out fully with polyester, vinyl ester, or epoxy resin, and it conforms to curves. Use 2mm for light bulking and 4mm where you need maximum stiffness.

Expanding urethane pour foam is a two-part, closed-cell liquid foam system that expands rapidly when mixed. It's used for flotation, insulation, soundproofing, and filling voids in boat hulls, decks, and other marine structures.

Use 2 lb foam for standard flotation applications. It offers about 60 lbs of buoyancy per cubic foot. For added strength or to support a deck, 4 lb foam is a better option.

Use graduated mixing cups to measure resin and hardener or catalyst to the ratio on the label, then stir with a flat stick for at least a minute, scraping the sides and bottom so it blends fully. Epoxy must be measured to its exact ratio and is not forgiving; polyester takes a small percentage of MEKP by volume. Mix only what you can use within the pot life.

A basic vacuum bagging setup needs bagging film, sealant tape, peel ply and breather, a bag connector, tubing, and a vacuum pump to pull the air out and press the laminate down as it cures. Resin infusion adds a feed line and flow media so resin is drawn through dry fabric under vacuum. Our starter kits bundle everything except the pump.

Use disposable nitrile gloves, not latex or vinyl. Nitrile resists the styrene in polyester and the chemicals in epoxy far better, and it lowers the risk of the skin sensitivity that repeated epoxy contact can bring on. Change gloves as soon as resin gets on the outside, and do not wipe resin off with acetone while wearing them, which can carry it through to your skin.

Match the grit to the stage. Knock down cured laminate or heavy gelcoat with 80 to 120 grit, fair and smooth with 220 to 320, then wet-sand gelcoat for polishing with 400, 600, and on up to 1000 or finer before you buff. Sanding sponges follow curves better than flat paper. Always sand cured surfaces and wear a dust mask, since fiberglass dust irritates skin and lungs.

Disposable natural-bristle chip brushes are the shop standard for resin and gelcoat. They are cheap enough to throw away after a batch, and the bristles hold up to the styrene in polyester. Foam brushes work for thin coats and small touch-ups but can break down in solvent-heavy resin. Buy chip brushes in bulk, since resin ruins them and they are not worth cleaning.

Use a half- or full-face respirator fitted with organic-vapor cartridges for polyester resin, gelcoat, MEKP, acetone, and paint solvents, since it is the styrene and solvent vapor you need to filter out. A particulate dust mask does not stop these fumes. Replace the cartridges once you start to smell solvent through the mask, and store the respirator sealed so the cartridges last.

Use a metal or paddle laminating roller to compact the laminate and drive out trapped air after you wet out the glass, which prevents weak, bubble-filled spots. Reach for a corner roller on inside corners, a radius roller on curves, and a detail roller in tight areas. Wet out first with a chip brush or squeegee, then roll until no more air bubbles rise.

Wear nitrile gloves, eye protection, and a Tyvek or disposable coverall to keep resin and glass fibers off your skin and clothes. Use an organic-vapor respirator when working with polyester resin, gelcoat, MEKP, or solvents, and always keep the area ventilated. A simple dust mask is enough only for sanding cured glass, not for liquid resin or solvent fumes.

Yes. Many marine fabrication supplies are regulated for transport, including polyester and vinyl ester resin, gelcoat, acetone, PVA mold release, epoxy hardeners, and MEKP catalyst. We ship these by ground in approved packaging under DOT Limited Quantity rules. They cannot travel by air or expedited service, so choose a ground option at checkout for any flammable or corrosive item.

No. Flammable and corrosive products ship by ground only, and the routes to Hawaii, Alaska, Puerto Rico, and other US territories move by air, which hazmat ground service cannot use. For that reason we ship hazardous items to the 48 contiguous states only. Non-hazardous dry goods like cloth, fillers, foam, and tools can still ship to those destinations by standard service.

It depends on the product. Liquid resins, gelcoat, epoxy hardeners, MEKP catalyst, acetone, and PVA mold release are regulated as flammable or corrosive hazardous materials. Dry goods like fiberglass cloth, mat, carbon fiber, fillers and powders, foam, tools, and safety gear are not regulated and ship by any service. If your cart mixes both, the hazmat items set the shipping method for the order.

We ship orders same day if they are in stock (you'll get an email if an item is backordered). We use 2day FedEx Shipping or 3-5 Day UPS Ground.

Flammable liquids like resin, gelcoat, acetone, and PVA release, along with corrosive epoxy hardeners, are hazardous materials under DOT rules. In the sizes we ship they qualify for ground (surface) transport but are not allowed on passenger aircraft, so air and expedited services are off the table. Ground shipping keeps these products compliant and affordable, so plan for standard ground transit on any hazmat order.

Small containers ship under DOT Limited Quantity rules, which keep hazmat on standard ground service at a normal rate with no hazmat fee in the 48 states. Once a container passes the Limited Quantity size, usually around a quart to a gallon depending on the product, it needs full hazmat packaging, shipping papers, and a carrier fee, which raises the cost. That is why a gallon often ships for more than a quart of the same product, and why some large sizes are freight only.

Yes. Safety Data Sheets are available for our resins, hardeners, gelcoat, solvents, and other regulated products. If an SDS is not linked on the product page, contact us with the product name and we will send the current version. Read Section 14 before shipping a hazardous product and Section 8 for the protective gear you should wear.

We are an online supplier and currently fulfill all orders by shipping, so local pickup is not offered at this time. If you need an order quickly, in-stock items placed before 4pm ship the same business day, and you can choose a faster ground service at checkout where available. Reach out if you have a tight deadline and we will help where we can.

Yes. Our Wholesale Pro program gives qualified shops, boatyards, and high-volume buyers tiered pricing on resin, fabrics, gelcoat, fillers, and more. Apply for a Wholesale Pro account on our wholesale page, and once you are approved your pricing applies automatically at checkout. For a large one-time order, contact us and we will put together a quote.

Boat Suppliers is a marine fabrication and repair supplier specializing in fiberglass, composites, and boat-building materials. We stock resin and hardener, fiberglass cloth, mat, and biaxial fabrics, carbon fiber, gelcoat, fillers, foam, and the tools and safety gear that go with them, serving boatyards, professional fabricators, and DIY boat owners alike. We ship nationwide from our Florida facility.

Boat Suppliers is based in Florida and ships orders from our Florida facility across the United States. In-stock orders placed before 4pm ship the same business day. Some flammable and corrosive products ship by ground only and to the 48 contiguous states, so check the product page if you are ordering hazardous materials or shipping to Hawaii, Alaska, or Puerto Rico.

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