Gelcoats

33 products

Gelcoats

Marine gelcoat, and the one decision that ruins most first jobs

Gelcoat is pigmented polyester resin made to be the surface rather than the structure. It is what gives a hull its gloss and its UV protection, and it goes into a mold first, before any glass. Quart through 5 gallon, every size shipped with MEKP.

Waxed or unwaxed. Get this one right

Gelcoat is air inhibited: exposed to air, the surface will not fully cure and stays tacky. Waxed gelcoat has a surfacing agent blended in that floats to the top and seals it, so it cures hard and sandable. Unwaxed gelcoat stays tacky on purpose so the next layer bonds to it.

So: waxed for a final coat in open air, like a repair on a deck or a topside patch. Unwaxed when you are laying glass over it, which is every gelcoat sprayed into a mold. Using waxed gelcoat in a mold is the classic mistake, and it delaminates. If you have unwaxed gelcoat and need a hard finish, add surfacing wax to the last coat yourself.

White, neutral, clear and tooling

Pure white is the stock hull colour and the one most repairs need. Neutral is an untinted base for colour matching an aged hull, which almost never matches a tin of white straight off the shelf. Clear goes over graphics and veneers. Orange and black tooling gelcoat are harder and more heat resistant than hull gelcoat, built to survive being demolded dozens of times, and the high contrast colours make pinholes and scratches visible on a mold surface.

Spraying, brushing and thinning

Gelcoat sprays at roughly 15 to 20 mil in two coats and brushes heavier. It is too viscous for most guns as supplied, so it is thinned with styrene, not acetone, which flashes off and leaves the film short. Hold thinning to about 5 percent or the film loses build and gloss.

Catalyst and coverage

Gelcoat takes about 2 percent MEKP, noticeably more than laminating resin, and the window is narrower. The gelcoat calculator sizes the job by area, coats and mil thickness, and gives the catalyst dose for your shop temperature.

Waxed gelcoat has an additive that rises to the surface as it cures, sealing out air so the coat hardens tack-free and is ready to sand. Unwaxed (sanding) gelcoat has no additive, so it stays tacky until you add surfacing wax to the final coat or cover it with PVA. Use unwaxed when you plan to lay more coats, and use waxed for the last coat.

About 2% MEKP by volume at 77°F, which is about 19 cc per quart or 76 cc (about 2.5 fl oz) per gallon. Use a little more in a cold shop and a little less in heat, but stay between 1.5% and 2.5%. Measure with a graduated dispenser, since drops are not a reliable measure.

At about 20 mil wet, one gallon of gelcoat covers about 80 square feet before losses. Allowing for overspray, plan about 60 square feet per gallon (about 15 per quart) when spraying, or about 70 square feet per gallon when brushing or rolling. Tooling and heavy color coats go thicker. The gelcoat calculator works it out for your job.

Yes. For small repairs you can brush or roll gelcoat, though spraying gives the smoothest finish. Thin it about 5% to 10% with styrene so it flows out and self-levels, catalyze with MEKP, and add surfacing wax to the last coat. Work in thin coats to avoid runs, and plan to sand and buff afterward since some brush marks are normal.

It is not recommended. Polyester gelcoat bonds well to polyester and vinyl ester laminates but adheres poorly to epoxy. If you must gelcoat over epoxy, let the epoxy fully cure, wash off any amine blush, sand it thoroughly, and expect a weaker bond. For epoxy repairs, a two-part polyurethane topcoat is usually the better finish.

Tooling gelcoat is a harder, more heat-resistant, high-gloss formula made for building fiberglass molds, not finished parts. Backed by tooling resin, it gives a mirror mold surface with excellent release and holds up to repeated part pulls. Orange and black are common because the strong color makes pinholes and thin spots easy to see. Standard gelcoat is for the finished part's exterior.

Clean the area with acetone, then sand or grind the damage to a slight V so fresh gelcoat can key in. Mask around it, mix gelcoat with the right amount of MEKP, and add surfacing wax to the final coat so it cures tack-free. Apply slightly proud of the surface, let it cure, then wet-sand from coarse to fine and buff to a gloss. Match the color first with pigment on larger or visible repairs.

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