Polyester Resins

15 products

Polyester Resins

Polyester laminating resin, with the hardener in the box

Polyester is the resin production boats are built from and the one most hull repairs should be done in. It is the cheapest way to put glass down, it cures fast enough to laminate several plies in a day, and it is the right partner for chopped strand mat. Quart through 5 gallon, every size shipped with catalyst.

General purpose or marine grade

General purpose orthophthalic resin is the workhorse for mold backing, filling and layup that is not going to live in water. Marine grade layup resin uses an isophthalic blend that stands up to constant immersion, and it is what belongs below the waterline. If the part gets wet and stays wet, pay the difference.

Waxed or unwaxed matters more than people expect

Laminating resin is supplied air inhibited, without wax, so each ply stays tacky and the next one bonds to it chemically instead of mechanically. That same surface will stay slightly sticky forever if you leave it as your final coat. Stir surfacing wax into the last batch only, roughly 1 oz per quart, and it cures hard and sands clean.

Tooling and surfboard resin

Isophthalic tooling resin is formulated for low shrinkage, which is what keeps a mold true instead of printing through and distorting as it cures. Silmar 249 is the clear surfboard resin, water white and UV stable, for glassing blanks rather than patching hulls.

Catalyst, measured not guessed

Polyester needs MEKP by percentage, and the right percentage moves with shop temperature: more when it is cold, less when it is hot. Too little and it never fully cures, too much and it gels in the bucket before you get it out. MEKP is stocked from 2 oz to a gallon, the MEKP calculator gives the dose, and styrene is here when you need to thin for spraying.

Epoxy resin provides better adhesion, moisture resistance, and flexibility compared to polyester resin. While polyester is more economical and widely used in mass production, epoxy is preferred for high-performance applications, repairs, and situations requiring a strong bond.

Polyester resin is widely used for building and repairing fiberglass boats. It is ideal for laminating fiberglass cloth, molding parts, and creating gelcoat finishes. It’s cost-effective and works well for general-purpose repairs.

No, polyester resin does not adhere well to cured epoxy. However, epoxy can be applied over cured polyester if the surface is properly prepared and sanded.

No, you should not use polyester resin on EPS foam (expanded polystyrene). Polyester resin contains styrene, a solvent that dissolves EPS foam on contact. This reaction will ruin your foam core and release harmful fumes. If you're working with EPS foam, for example, in surfboard shaping or foam core laminates, you should instead use epoxy resin, which is chemically compatible and safe for EPS.

It depends on the area, fabric weight and number of plies. As a guide for hand layup with about 15% waste, one gallon wets out about 11 square feet of three plies of 1.5 oz chopped strand mat, or about 50 square feet of three plies of 6 oz cloth. Mat takes about 3.4 oz of resin per square foot per ply. The resin calculator gives exact amounts for polyester layups.

Yes, polyester resin can be tinted using compatible pigments. This is often done to match gelcoat colors or create custom finishes.

At the standard 1.25% MEKP dose and about 77°F, polyester resin gels in roughly 15 to 30 minutes and cures hard over several hours. Warmer temperatures, thicker pours and more catalyst shorten that, and cold lengthens it, so adjust the MEKP dose for your shop temperature.

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