13 products

Fiberglass Cloth

Every woven glass cloth we cut, in one place

Woven cloth is the reinforcement you reach for when you want strength with a clean surface: it wets out clear, it follows a curve, and it finishes far better than mat or roving. This page lists everything we cut, 3 oz through 40 oz, in plain, twill and satin weave, in E-glass and in genuine S-2 glass.

E-glass or S-glass

Almost everyone wants E-glass. It is the standard laminating glass, it is what plans and repair manuals assume, and it is a fraction of the price. Reach for S-glass only when weight is the real constraint and you need roughly 30 percent more breaking strength out of the same yardage: board decks, race hulls, foil parts, anywhere adding another layer of E-glass is not an option. If you are not sure, you want E-glass.

Then pick the weight

Weight decides how much glass goes down per layer and how much resin it drinks. Light cloth at 3 to 4 oz is for skins, sheathing and cosmetic layers. The 6 oz weights are the general-purpose middle and cover most repairs. From 8.5 to 10 oz you are building structure, and 18 to 40 oz is there to build thickness fast on transoms, stringers and tooling.

Weave changes how it behaves, not how strong it is

A plain weave is the stable, economical default. A 2x2 twill drapes into compound curves a plain weave fights. An 8-harness satin such as Style 7781 is the most drapable of the three and leaves the smoothest surface, which is why it ends up on molds, tooling and finish plies.

Mill style numbers on every listing

Each cloth shows its industry style number in its specifications, so you can match what a plan set, an engineer or a repair manual called out instead of guessing from ounces. We carry Style 120, 1522, 7532, 7533, 7544, 7500, 7725 and 7781 in E-glass, and 6522, 6533 and 6781 in S-2 glass.

How it ships

Cloth is cut to order from full rolls and rolled rather than folded, so it arrives without crease marks, and the cut edges are taped so the weave does not fray in transit. Buy a single yard to try a weight before you commit to a roll.

Fiberglass cloth is used to reinforce composite materials in applications like boat building, surfboard repairs, auto bodywork, and structural laminates. It’s combined with resin to form a strong, lightweight composite.

The weight refers to ounces per square yard. Lighter cloth (e.g., 4oz) is more flexible and used for fine finishing; heavier cloth (e.g., 10oz) provides more strength and bulk.

Fiberglass cloth works with all three marine resins: epoxy, polyester, and vinyl ester. Unlike chopped strand mat, woven cloth has no emulsion binder to dissolve, so it wets out cleanly in any of them. Epoxy gives the strongest, clearest bond and is the standard for wood and structural work, while polyester and vinyl ester are common for production and gelcoat repair.

Fiberglass cloth is woven for strength in specific directions, while chopped strand mat is made of randomly oriented fibers and is better for building bulk.

Use sharp scissors or a utility knife. To reduce fraying, you can lightly mist the cloth with water or use tape to mark the cutting line.

Yes. With the right resin, 10 oz fiberglass cloth bonds to wood, metal, foam, and cured fiberglass. Use epoxy for wood and metal, since it grips those substrates far better than polyester. Prep matters more than the cloth: sand to clean, bare material, remove all dust and oil, and wet out the surface before laying the cloth down.

Yes, epoxy resin is ideal for wetting out fiberglass cloth and other reinforcements like carbon fiber and Kevlar. It saturates the fabric well and cures into a strong, durable laminate.

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