Gelcoat Repair Kit - Pure White Gelcoat, Surfacing Wax, Hardener & Tinting Pigments

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Gelcoat Repair Kit - Pure White Gelcoat, Surfacing Wax, Hardener & Tinting Pigments

Gelcoat Repair Kit - Pure White Gelcoat, Surfacing Wax, Hardener & Tinting Pigments

SKU:GEL-RK-W025

Regular price $64.95 USD
Sale price $64.95 USD Regular price USD
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Size: Quart

Professional grade isophthalic gelcoat kit for marine, automotive, and composite repairs. Lay your build coats straight from the can: unwaxed gelcoat stays recoatable, so each coat bonds to the last without sanding. Stir the included surfacing wax into the final coat only, about 1 oz per quart, and that coat cures tack-free and sands clean.

Most boat white is not pure white. Factory and weathered off-whites lean warm or grey, and these two pigments are the ones that take you there: a touch of yellow warms it toward cream or ivory, a touch of black cools it toward grey. Tint a small test batch a drop at a time and let it cure before you judge it, because the color shifts as it cures.

What's in the box:

  • 1 quart pure white ISO/NPG gelcoat, unwaxed (1 gallon in the gallon kit)
  • 1 oz MEKP hardener (2 oz in the gallon kit)
  • 2 oz surfacing wax for the final coat (16 oz in the gallon kit)
  • 1 oz Carbon Black and 1 oz Bright Yellow liquid pigment
  • 2 inch natural bristle chip brush (two in the gallon kit)

You supply: mixing cups, stir sticks, nitrile gloves, and sandpaper for prep and finishing.

Ideal for boat hulls, decks, bathtubs, and fiberglass restoration projects where durability and finish quality matter.

Technical specifications

  • Gelcoat: pure white, ISO/NPG, unwaxed
  • Surfacing wax: included as a separate bottle, 1/2 to 1 oz per quart, final coat only
  • Pigments: 1 oz Carbon Black and 1 oz Bright Yellow liquid pigment
  • Catalyst: MEKP included, 2% by volume: 19 cc (2/3 oz) per quart, 76 cc (2.5 oz) per gallon; 1.5% hot to 2.5% cold
  • Sizes: quart kit and gallon kit
  • Pure White Gelcoat, unwaxed
  • MEKP Catalyst
  • Surfacing Wax, separate bottle
  • Carbon Black + Bright Yellow Pigments
  • Chip Brush
  • Pure white ISO/NPG gelcoat, MEKP, surfacing wax and black and yellow tinting pigments in one kit
  • ISO/NPG marine gelcoat
  • Tint to the hull color, catalyze, and wax the final coat so it cures tack-free
  • Build coats stay recoatable; add the wax only to the last one
  • Black and yellow tints, the two that move pure white toward an off-white
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Clean the area with acetone, then sand or grind the damage to a slight V so fresh gelcoat can key in. Mask around it, mix gelcoat with the right amount of MEKP, and add surfacing wax to the final coat so it cures tack-free. Apply slightly proud of the surface, let it cure, then wet-sand from coarse to fine and buff to a gloss. Match the color first with pigment on larger or visible repairs.

Start with a neutral or white base gelcoat and add polyester-compatible pigments a little at a time, testing on a scrap or hidden spot until the cured color matches. Cure shifts the shade slightly, so judge the match after it kicks, not while wet. Older hulls fade, so you may need to tint a little off the original to blend. For a solid white hull, a pure white gelcoat often matches with no tinting.

Clean and sand the surface, then catalyze the gelcoat with MEKP and lay it down in two to three coats. Spray it at about 18 to 20 mils wet, or brush and roll thinner coats, letting each one flash before the next. Because polyester gelcoat is air-inhibited, the final coat needs surfacing wax (or a PVA film) to cure tack-free so you can sand and buff it.

About 2% MEKP by volume at 77°F, which is about 19 cc per quart or 76 cc (about 2.5 fl oz) per gallon. Use a little more in a cold shop and a little less in heat, but stay between 1.5% and 2.5%. Measure with a graduated dispenser, since drops are not a reliable measure.

Only with unwaxed gelcoat. Air stops the surface of polyester from curing, so unwaxed gelcoat stays tacky until you stir surfacing wax into the final coat, about 1/2 oz per quart (2 oz per gallon), or spray PVA over it. Leave the build coats unwaxed so they recoat without sanding, and wax only the last coat.

A tacky surface almost always means air-inhibited cure, not too little catalyst. Unwaxed gelcoat will not harden on top until you add surfacing wax to the final coat or seal it with PVA. Other causes are too little MEKP, temperatures below about 60°F, or high humidity. Confirm your catalyst ratio, warm the shop, and wax or PVA the last coat.