RV Delamination Repair Kit - Injectable Epoxy with Syringes & Tubing

SKU:EPOX-RV-21Q

$139.95 USD

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Wall Area: Up to 12 sq ft (48 oz)

Up to 12 sq ft (48 oz) Up to 24 sq ft (96 oz) Up to 48 sq ft (1.5 gal)

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A complete injection kit for a bubbled, wavy or loose fiberglass sidewall on an RV, camper or travel trailer. Delamination is the fiberglass skin letting go of the wall behind it, almost always after water got in at a window, light or seam. The fix is adhesive, not filler: thin epoxy goes into the gap through tubing, the wall is pressed flat, and the skin is bonded back down.

What is in the kit:

Two-part thin epoxy: resin plus slow hardener, mixed 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener by volume. 48 oz, 96 oz or 1.5 gallons by size
Large injection syringes with flexible tubing: 2, 4 or 6. The tubing feeds down inside the wall, so the epoxy lands where the skin is loose
Graduated quart mixing tubs: 2 in the small kit, 4 in the two larger kits
Plastic spreader (2 in the larger kits) and wood stir sticks

Which size: plan on about 4 fl oz of mixed epoxy per square foot of loose skin.

Size	Epoxy	Covers about	Syringes
Up to 12 sq ft	48 oz	A bubble or two beside a window	2
Up to 24 sq ft	96 oz	A 4 x 6 ft section of wall	4
Up to 48 sq ft	1.5 gal	Most of a sidewall between two openings	6

Press on the wall and mark where the skin stops moving, then measure that. The loose area is nearly always bigger than the bubble you can see, so go one size up if it is close.

You supply: nitrile gloves, eye protection, painter's tape, plastic sheet, flat boards or plywood with braces or clamps to press the wall, a drill and 1/4" bit if you inject through holes, and denatured alcohol for cleanup.

How the repair works: reseal the leak and let the wall dry. Open a path into the gap at a window frame or trim, or drill small holes. Mix the epoxy 2:1, inject it from the far side of the loose area back toward the opening, press the skin flat under boards, and leave it braced until it cures.

Working time: 35 to 40 minutes of pot life at 80F with the slow hardener, which is what a wall-sized job needs. Work at 70F or warmer and out of direct sun. Leave the braces on a full day at 80F and two days at 70F; cooler than that, the cure can take 2 to 3 days.

What it will not fix: a wall whose backing is wet, soft or rotted. Epoxy needs something solid to bond to, so dry it and rebuild it first. A crack, hole or broken corner in the fiberglass itself is a different repair: use the RV & Camper Fiberglass Repair Kit.

Ships in two boxes: the epoxy and mixing tools in one, the injection syringes and tubing in another, so they can arrive on different days. The epoxy ships UPS or FedEx Ground to the lower 48. The resin is not regulated for transport; the hardener is a limited quantity corrosive, so that box travels by ground and cannot go by air.

Guides for this job:

Specifications

Epoxy: thin, clear two-part epoxy with slow hardener, mixed 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener by volume. 48 oz, 96 oz or 1.5 gal
Coverage: plan on about 4 fl oz of mixed epoxy per square foot of loose skin. About 12, 24 or 48 sq ft
Working time: 35 to 40 minutes pot life at 80F. Work at 70F or warmer
Under braces: a full day at 80F, two days at 70F. Cooler than that the cure can take 2 to 3 days
Injection: large syringes with flexible tubing, 2, 4 or 6 by size
Also in the box: graduated quart mixing tubs (2, 4 or 4), plastic spreader (1, 2 or 2), wood stir sticks. You supply nitrile gloves, boards and braces
Walls: fiberglass RV, camper and trailer sidewalls and caps, Filon or gelcoated, with dry and solid backing
NOT for wet, soft or rotted backing, aluminum-skinned trailers, or rubber and TPO roofs
Ships in two boxes: epoxy and mixing tools in one, injection syringes and tubing in the other
Epoxy ships by ground only: the hardener is a regulated corrosive

View full details

What causes RV sidewall delamination?

Water. A leak at a window, marker light, roof seam or corner trim wets the thin backing behind the fiberglass skin and breaks the glue line, so the skin lifts into a bubble or a wave. Fix the leak first or the repair will not last.

Can I fix RV delamination myself?

Yes, when the backing behind the skin is still dry and solid. You open a path into the gap, inject thin epoxy, press the wall flat under boards and leave it braced until the epoxy cures. If the backing is soft or rotted, that section has to be opened up and rebuilt instead.

How much epoxy does an RV delamination repair need?

Plan on about 4 fl oz of mixed epoxy per square foot of loose skin. That makes 48 oz enough for about 12 sq ft, 96 oz for about 24 and 1.5 gallons for about 48. Press on the wall to find where the skin stops moving: the loose area is nearly always bigger than the bubble you can see.

How long does an RV wall need to stay braced after injecting epoxy?

A full day at 80 F and two days at 70 F with a slow epoxy hardener. Cooler than that the cure can take 2 to 3 days, so leave the braces on and keep the wall warm.

Do I have to drill holes in the sidewall to fix RV delamination?

Not always. The cleanest route is an opening that is already there: loosen a window frame, baggage door or corner trim and feed tubing in behind the skin. Where no opening is close enough, 1/4 in holes work, and they are filled and touched up afterward.

Is an RV delamination repair kit the same as a fiberglass repair kit?

No. A delamination kit is adhesive for a skin that has come loose from the wall. A crack, hole or broken corner in the fiberglass itself needs glass and resin, which is what the RV & Camper Fiberglass Repair Kit is for.

Will the epoxy touch the foam insulation in an RV wall?

In most laminated walls the epoxy goes between the fiberglass skin and a thin plywood backing, not onto the foam. If your wall bonds the skin straight to foam, try a small amount on a scrap or a hidden spot first.

How to use this kit

Injectable thin epoxy that re-bonds a loose fiberglass sidewall. Every kit ships with this same sheet printed and in the box.

Safety: Epoxy resin and hardener are skin sensitizers: repeated contact can start a permanent allergy, so keep gloves on and never wash epoxy off skin with solvent. Use soap and water. Wear eye protection when injecting: a blocked tube can spray when it lets go. Keep epoxy off window seals, decals and trim, and wipe drips with denatured alcohol before they cure. Spread leftover mixed epoxy out thin instead of leaving it in the tub, where it heats up.

What is in the kit

48 / 96 / 192 oz Two-part thin epoxyresin plus slow hardener, mixed 2:1 by volume
2 / 4 / 6 Large injection syringes with flexible tubingthe tubing reaches down inside the wall
2 / 4 / 4 Graduated quart mixing tubsmeasure both parts by the marks
1 / 2 / 2 Plastic spreaderswork the skin down and clear squeeze-out
1 pk Wood stir sticks

You supply: nitrile gloves, eye protection, painter's tape, plastic sheet or wax paper, flat boards or plywood to press the wall, braces or clamps to hold them, a drill and 1/4 in bit if you inject through holes, and denatured alcohol for cleanup.

Mixing epoxy (2:1 by volume)

Ratio	2 parts resin to 1 part hardener
One batch	8 oz resin + 4 oz hardener (12 oz mixed)
Plan on	about 4 oz mixed per square foot of loose skin

Measure by volume in the graduated tubs. Off-ratio epoxy does not cure slow, it never fully cures. Confirm the ratio printed on your hardener bottle.

Stir 2 minutes scraping sides and bottom. Mix one batch at a time: a full tub of mixed epoxy heats up and kicks early.

Pot life is 35 to 40 minutes at 80 F. Work at 70 F or warmer and out of direct sun.

The job, start to finish

1

Stop the leak and check the wall

Delamination starts with water. Find where it got in (a window frame, marker light, corner trim or roof seam), reseal it, and let the wall dry out fully before you glue anything. Then press on the loose area: the skin should flex, but the backing behind it should feel solid. If the backing is soft, crumbling or black with rot, injected epoxy has nothing to hold on to and that section has to be opened up and rebuilt.

2

Open a path into the gap

Use the opening closest to the loose area. Best is one the factory already made: back out the screws on a window frame, baggage door or corner trim and ease the skin away from the wall. Where there is no opening nearby, drill 1/4 in holes just deep enough to reach the hollow, one at the low edge of the loose area and one every 8 to 12 in above it. Wrap tape around the bit as a depth stop, and tape plastic below to catch drips.

3

Mix and inject

Mix one 12 oz batch (chart at left), stir 2 minutes, and draw it into a syringe. Through an opening, feed the tubing to the far side of the loose area and inject as you slowly pull the tube back. Through holes, start at the lowest hole and inject until epoxy shows at the next hole up, tape the hole, and move up. Plan on about 4 oz of mixed epoxy per square foot.

4

Press the wall flat

Work the skin with the spreader or the flat of your hand from the middle outward to spread the epoxy and push the air out. Cover the area with plastic sheet, lay flat boards or plywood over it, and brace or clamp them so the skin sits tight and flat against the wall. Use firm, even pressure rather than a hard squeeze: too much pushes the epoxy back out of the joint. Wipe squeeze-out with denatured alcohol while it is wet.

5

Cure, then reseal

Leave the braces on a full day at 80 F and two days at 70 F. Pull the boards and plastic, trim cured drips with a plastic scraper, then reinstall the window frame or trim with fresh sealant. Fill drilled holes flush with a dab of thickened epoxy or sealant and touch them up to match.

Works onFiberglass RV, camper and trailer sidewalls and caps, Filon or gelcoated, where the skin has let go of the wall behind it but the backing is still dry and solid: bubbles, waves and loose areas around windows, doors and seams.

Not forWalls with wet, soft or rotted backing or framing (dry them and rebuild first), aluminum-skinned trailers, and rubber or TPO roofs. Not a leak fix: find and reseal the leak before you inject.

If something goes wrong

Epoxy runs out below

The gap is open to a seam underneath. Tape the seam, then inject in smaller amounts and let each one settle.

Skin will not sit flat

Old glue or debris in the gap, or pressure in the wrong place. Use a wider board and add a brace at the high spot.

Still soft after a day

Under 70 F the slow hardener can take 2 to 3 days. Leave the braces on and warm the wall. Do not add more hardener.

Soft or greasy spots

Off-ratio or under-stirred epoxy. That batch will not cure. Open the area, clean it out and inject a fresh one.

The bubble came back

Water is still getting in, or the backing was rotten. Find the leak before repairing it again.

Sizing: 48 oz covers about 12 sq ft of loose skin, 96 oz about 24 and 1.5 gal about 48. A crack or hole in the fiberglass itself is a different repair: see the RV & Camper Fiberglass Repair Kit at boatsuppliers.com.